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Michelin Guide serves up new stars to 52 French restaurants

At its latest yearly awarding of star ratings to French chefs and their restaurants, the coveted Michelin Guide gave its honours to 62 establishments - 52 of them new from last year - but only six women were among them, which the guide's director said was 'a reality we deplore'. 

La rédaction de Mediapart

This article is freely available.

The Michelin Guide has unveiled its annual list of the best French restaurants, praising the 'cultural dynamism' of a new generation of chefs, though again only a handful of women have been honoured, reports Radio France Internationale

Two restaurants achieved the highest pinnacle of three stars at the annual ceremony, this year held in the Loire Valley city of Tours: Le Gabriel in Paris and La Table du Castellet in the southern Provence region.

A total of 62 restaurants were awarded at least one star – most joining the Michelin ranks for the first time, including 23 that have been open for less than a year.

Among the innovative restaurants earning a star were Nhome in Paris, where there is only one table for 20 guests in a vaulted cellar opposite the Louvre, and Espadon at the Ritz, where chef Eugénie Béziat has brought daring African fusion dishes into the historic hotel.

Reflecting the continued male dominance of the industry, Béziat was one of just six women chefs being awarded a star on Monday. 

Michelin Guide director Gwendal Poullennec referred to the gender gap at Monday's ceremony, saying: "There are too few women at the head of kitchens despite their being more and more numerous in culinary schools and restaurant teams".

"It's a reality we deplore," he said, but added he was still hopeful thanks to "strong initiatives to promote talented young women".

La Table du Castellet – which focuses on locally-sourced seafood and vegetables – went straight to the top ranking in its first year under Fabien Ferré.

At just 35, he is currently the youngest chef in France with three stars.

"It's an enormous challenge every day and I'm so glad to be able to experience this moment with my colleagues," Ferré told the AFP news agency.

Read more of this report from RFI.